I add a drop of water to enhance color flow and surface tension. Steps 1-4 from left to right (Base Colour, Shade, Drybrush, Glaze)Īfter about 1 hour drying time I apply the first layer of Averland Sunset using the Size 3 Standard Brush. This time, I apply even less paint so some Skeleton Bone can shine through.Īt this stage, the base colour for the Death Guard is finished, next part will be armour trim and weapons as well as rust effects on both. Preferably there should be some Tan Earth still coming through around recessed areas.Īgain, I let the Skeleton Bone dry for at least an hour before continuing with a light drybrush of Brainmatter Beige. I make sure not to apply Skeleton Bone to the recesses of the model since this would eliminate the shading done previously. I simply give the model an all over wash with Strong Tone and let it dry for at least an hour, but preferably over night.Īfter the wash has sufficiently dried, I give the whole model a heavy drybrushing using Army Painter Skeleton Bone and the cut-off brush. Next up is a generous wash with Army Painter Strong Tone – Army Painter Washes are, in my opinion, about the best shading Inks/Washes available, since they don´t dry up splotchy or uneven like other washes (I´m looking at you, Vallejo Game Colour Washes!!). I apply 2 layers of Tan Earth to get a nice even base colour, letting each layer dry for about half an hour. Steps 1-4 (Base Colour, Shade, Heavy Drybrush, Light Drybrush)įirst of all I spray the models using a white primer – typically Army Painter Colour Primer Spray Paints, but in this case I used Citadel Skull White primer spray.Īfter about 1 hour drying time I apply the first layer of Tan Earth using the Size 3 Standard Brush. Lukas Gold Toray Size 3 Standard Brush, cut to half length for use as a dry brush
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |